Friday 22 February 2013

Paul Harcourt Davies.















The MYN project

He is a member of the Meet Your Neighbours project (MYN), a collective of photographers who want to show the world the wildlife living close to our own doors. This is a natural option for Paul as “virtually all the projects I am now involved with have an element of ‘close to home.’”

That was the subject of the presentation he gave at WildPhotos 2008 and something he is deeply committed to. Raising awareness of “what is around us through my photographs and also… ensuring the highest possible standards of integrity in nature photography, without that,” he continues, “credibility vanishes.”

Davies at work, during a photography close-up session, something he has done for years.

This year Davies has two presentations at WildPhotos, one on the 19th October, “Close focus and wide angles – Micro and Macro tips” and on the 20th a second theme that interests him, “Publishing that Book – Print or Electronic?”

Davies does a lot of different types of photography, but is a macro and close-up specialist. We talked about that topic and the use of today’s cameras. We also spoke about his last published book, Digital Close-up Photography Q&A, that first sets the basic rules for this type of photography and afterwards seems to break most of them.

Davies says that photographers have to come to grips with the basics and then forget them.

Phototuts+: Many of your close-up photos, also those present your recent book, reveal that you’re using wide angle lenses for a lot of your work. It’s as if you’re trying to break the rules as telephoto lenses are usually the macro lens of choice. Do you feel people have to break the rules to achieve their own goals?

Davies: I have always had that slightly perverse tendency not to go with the flow. Even as a kid, I avoided things if everybody else did them. However, my use of wide angle lenses is first and foremost linked to the way I like to portray information about nature

For example, with a wide-angle lens used close to a subject you can depict it in the context of its background. In a single shot, you’ve included subject detail and also said so much more through its surroundings.

Then again, I will often use telephoto macro lens that pulls a subject out of its background isolated against a soft blur. I also enjoy using backlit white panels, the MYN approach, which really does make you see familiar subjects in a different way.

What I want is for people to take what is there in the book, move on and make it their own. Recipes are too restricting, better to show someone how to “cook!”

Pt+: How hard is it to learn the rules for close-up photography, and then go and break them?

PD: When you start moving close to subjects there seems like an awful lot to learn and remember. But it happens quickly and what I try to encourage people on my courses to do is to come to grips with the basics and then forget them. The technical stuff becomes second nature.

If you can achieve a mastery of your camera and its capabilities, then that frees you rather than restricts. It’s a bit like being a musician, go through all that hard practice with scales and arpeggios and a much wider world opens up in front of you.

All I can say is persist and I promise you that very quickly you get results that delight both you and everyone else who sees them.

Davies believes that APS-C sensors are not just adequate, they are perfect.

Pt+: What is your advice for a newcomer to this area? Is there an essential kit of gear to buy?

PD: You really do need comparatively little in the way of equipment to get you close. Even mobile phones can produce incredible results. The basic need is for a camera that doesn’t restrict you and that possesses some means of close focusing.

Many lenses have a close-focus facility built in (wrongly called a ‘macro-mode’) but, to get closer still you will need some help: a macro lens, extension tubes or auxiliary lenses that you screw into the filter thread of the camera.


Start gently. Get familiar with the equipment you have. If you see a stunning butterfly on a flower in front of you then you don’t want to be fiddling about with the controls. That’s what I mentioned earlier, spend time ‘playing’ so technique becomes second nature and leaves you to concentrate on the subject.

Time and again I have seen people go out, buy a top of the range DSLR with expensive macro lenses and then be devastated when the results are poor. The good thing is that with mastery of just a little bit of technical expertise, the difference is incredible.

Pt+: Although you come from the film era, you seem to be enthusiastic about digital cameras and the immediate feedback they give you. Do you think there is a lower the learning curve for photography now?

PD: I am not just enthusiastic about digital cameras I am passionate about them and the capabilities. This technology fits hand in hand with my great love of the natural world, the engine that drives me along.

I used a D100 as soon as it came out over a decade ago. I’m positively evangelical about what can be achieved by anyone with today’s camera technology. All it takes is a little patience and the willingness to experiment.

Modern cameras make it much easier to get things like exposure and focus spot on so there is less need to concentrate on these initially. You can rely on the camera for so much but, if you want to explore and extend your vision, then it helps to know a bit more about exposure, dynamic range and white balance, for example.

In his recent book, the author explains how to set up a small studio for close-up photography.

Pt+: You have adopted digital cameras, but you seem to not follow the general trend, and state that a 12 megapixel camera is more than enough.

PD: Advertising has been described as the business of selling people things they didn’t know they wanted. One successful way of doing that is by making people feel inadequate, about their looks, the car they drive, the house they live in and so on.

In photography, the business of “my sensor is bigger than yours and has more pixels” has been part of a deliberate drive to sell camera models. It is interesting that some of the major manufacturers are beginning to go against this. Not everyone needs to produce wall-filling prints after all.

Pt+: In terms of sensors size you also use APS-C. Does it mean you don’t think a full frame sensor is needed?

PD: An FX sensor is primarily useful in macro work because of its low light, low noise capabilities, it opens up those areas for you. However, for reasons I go into in some detail in my recent book a smaller sensor has certain advantages when it comes to perceived depth of field for example.

The crop factor with the smaller sensors can also be used to your advantage when you are generating enlarged images of small subjects. I believe those APS-C sensors are not just adequate for most people developing an interest in macro, they are perfect. To me they suggest the future direction for this kind of photography.

I have seen incredible results taken with such cameras. They are easily portable and because you get great depth of field at f/5 .6 or f8, you then end up using fast shutter speeds that reduce the problem of camera shake. They make natural light macro easier. Their sensor sites are closer together and, in theory, that means higher resolution of detail.

However, there’s a lot of other things that come into that melting pot with the main one being how the information from the sensor is then used to construct the image, the trickery used for reducing noise and so on in those elusive algorithms. There are some very bright people out there working on these things for the advantage of those of us who just like going out and taking pictures.

The cover of Digital Close-up Photography Q&A, a book that answers many of questions about macro photography

Pt+: You seem to be very excited about the available technologies today. What projects are you working on and how much do they involve the use of technology?

PD: Well, I’ve also been working on image-stacking and more control of the camera from a MacBook Pro. Building things and experimenting has always been a part of my nature and everything seems to come together with digital technology.

I find it very hard to keep my enthusiasms to myself. It may not make commercial sense but I don’t have secrets. I also contribute to two blogs, something I love doing because of the freedom of expression, and through one of them, I am collaborating with my fellow blogger Clay Bolt on a series of eBooks that will deepen areas of macro photography in a way that could never be done with a conventional book.

We’re both passionate naturalists and photographers, whereas I bring a ‘technical’ background to the table, Clay is a really gifted designer. So, watch this space. I love this day and age for the control it gives me to do things at home:. It is up to us now, no excuses!

Robert Thomson.









Robert Thompson was born in Northern Ireland where he lived for most of his early life. His interest in natural history began during his childhood explorations of a large parkland estate where he grew up. After initially pursuing a hospital career in the dental profession in London, he returned to Ireland and became involved with environmental recording projects associated with insects, for local conservation and government organisations before developing his natural history photographic career.


Simon Stafford.
S A Goodwin.









He is an accomplished natural history photographer, author, entomologist and acclaimed specialist in close-up & macro photography and a Fellow of the Royal Photographic Society and the Irish Photographic Federation. He has been involved with a number of high profile natural history recording projects in Ireland and was the national recorder in Ireland for Dragonflies; co-ordinator for the highly successful “DRAGONFLYIRELAND PROJECT”; regional recorder for moths on behalf of Butterfly Conservation Northern Ireland and has written numerous books on various natural history topics and nature photography. He has also been a major photographic contributor to many other high profile, natural history publications in Britain and is one of Ireland’s leading nature photographers.





As an active conservationist, he promotes the welfare and preservation of his subjects through his photography and writing. He has a particular interest in dragonflies, butterflies and moths for which he has a specialist scientific knowledge.





His work is widely published in the UK, Ireland and internationally, with numerous photographic credits in a wide variety of book, magazines, calendars and various other media sources through his own library and agencies. He is a frequent writer and contributor to the photographic press and other natural history publications; had several solo exhibitions including the aerial landscape collection from the highly acclaimed “NATURAL HISTORY OF ULSTER”, which ran for five months in the Ulster Museum. He currently has a new exhibition entitled, “RARE & THREATENED BRYOPHYTES OF IRELAND”, which is currently on show at the Ulster Museum’s Belfast Gallery.




He has appeared on television and radio as a photographer, author and entomologist and been a contributor to other television programs relating to natural history and photography. Although now a convert to digital, he was a long time user and advocate of “MEDIUM FORMAT”; his images frequently illustrated Mamiya’s medium format camera systems, both in the UK and Japan. His work has also been featured in Nikon Pro magazine and Nikon UK.

His photographs are represented by a number of agencies including, Natural History Photographic Agency (NHPA), Photoshot, and Nature Picture Library (NPL) in the UK. He also runs his own picture library in Ireland, runs workshops and tours in some of Ireland’s most picturesque locations. With over twenty years experience as a natural history photographer, he has explored many of Ireland’s beauty spots and travelled widely in Europe photographing its flora and fauna with particular attention to its threatened and declining wild orchid populations.

Simon Stafford.






Simon Stafford first became interested in photography while a university student. Completely self-taught, he talked his way into a job as the photographer for the university's weekly newspaper and has been shooting pictures ever since. His photographs have been used widely in newspapers, books, calendars, and magazines, and he has also enjoyed numerous successes in many photographic competitions.

Simon has built up a wealth of experience over the past thirty years in both film and digital photography. Throughout his photographic career he has used the Nikon system extensively, adopting digital photography at an early stage with the release of the Nikon D1 camera during 1999; he has being using digital cameras exclusively since 2004. He completed his first book,The Nikon Compendium, during 2003. With nearly 400 pages and Simon's own extensive photography of Nikon cameras, Nikkor lenses, and Nikon system accessories, it represents a comprehensive history of the Nikon system for the user and collector alike. He has also written fifteen books on the Nikon camera system for the Magic Lantern Guide series, published by Lark Photography Books, and is currently working on a new series of guides for Nikon Speedlights and the Nikon Creative Lighting System.

He is involved in a wide variety of photographic projects, which include presenting photographic workshops, and contributing illustrated articles to leading photography magazines, he is also Technical Editor to Nikon Owner magazine (www.nikonownermagazine.com), and a regular contributor to Pixiq (www.pixiq.com), the photography resource web site.

At the Gallery area of this site you will find portfolios of his work, whilst the News page contains a list of Simon's activities including forthcoming photographic workshops and tutorials, and details of his books, and magazine articles.

"Simon Stafford ARPS is a regular contributor to Practical Photography and has demonstrated his creativity with a camera on many occasions."
 William Cheung, Editor (former).

"Simon Stafford quite simply epitomises a standard of excellence in many different photographic disciplines with real style and, he is always ready to share his knowledge with others."
 Gray Levett, Founder, Grays of Westminster.


Simon Stafford Photographer in Macro.




Simon Stafford’s Micro & Macro Photography Workshop
Posted on January 28, 2013

Sunday, 3rd February 2013
2:00 to 5:30 p.m.
Fitzroy House, 37 Fitzroy Street, London, W1T 6DX



Simon Stafford’s photographic seminars & workshops presented in association with Grays of Westminster have proved to be hugely popular and in response to high demand, Simon has developed this new practical workshop dedicated to close-up and macro photography.

Regardless of whether you are a complete newcomer to the Lilliputian world of close-up photography or a seasoned exponent, this course has been prepared to help you make a dramatic improvement to the quality of your close-up pictures by mastering core skills and creative techniques. Simon will discuss the critical importance of understanding and controlling light, and there will be an opportunity to use a variety of lighting equipment, including the Nikon R1C1 Macro Speedlight kit.

You will learn how to achieve high-quality pictures by applying sound camera technique and developing a consistent methodology. Simon will share his in-depth knowledge and 30 years of photographic experience so that you can achieve professional-looking results reliably (please note: attendance of one of Simon’s previous seminars or workshops is not a prerequisite of attending this event).
Agenda:

Part one: Camera skills
Understanding reproduction ratios and subject magnification
Appreciate the influence of working distance and diffraction
Choosing and using lenses for close focusing
Using lens accessories for close focusing
Filters for close-up photography
Selecting camera/lens support systems
Achieving accurate exposure at a close focus distance
Learn how to interpret the digital histogram display

Part two: Shooting skills
Best practice in camera handling
The pros and cons of AF and Vibration Reduction
Focusing techniques for close-up photography
Understanding and using depth-of-field
Selecting viewpoint and perspective
Honing composition skills
The importance of backgrounds
Creative techniques with focus, white balance and multiple exposure

Part three: Lighting for Micro & Macro Photography
Working with and controlling available light
Flash equipment and its application for close-up photography
Specialised lighting techniques
Choosing lighting equipment and accessories

Please note there will be ample opportunity to ask questions throughout the event, and Simon will demonstrate some of the tips and techniques he discusses.
Prerequisite:

Since this is a practical workshop each delegate should bring a camera body together with an appropriate lens or lenses to work with during the course

The cost of the session will be £155 with a special price of £95 if you are a current Nikon Owner subscriber. To book, please email me only with your full name, Nikon Owner user name/membership number, daytime mobile and landline. There are very limited places available, so please reply as soon as you are able to in order to avoid disappointment. If you are not currently a subscriber, you are welcome to join whilst booking the workshop to receive the discount on the course. The session will take place from 2.00 p.m. until 5.30 p.m. and includes mid-afternoon tea and biscuits.
gillian.greenwood@graysofwestminster.co.uk

Travelling to Fitzroy House, 37 Fitzroy Street, London W1T 6DX: the nearest underground station is Warren Street, but please do make sure that it is open – it is occasionally closed on a Sunday – if so, Goodge Street station is a good option. www.tfl.gov.uk
About Nikon Owner



Standard Annual Subscription – normal price £69; special price £59 when you book this course.
1-year Subscription to Nikon Owner + 3-yr warranty on all new Nikon products from Grays of Westminster
Nikon Owner magazine, a superb, glossy full-colour 60-page quarterly magazine that is 100% Nikon. Each issue delivers benchmark technical reviews of the very latest Nikon equipment, thought-provoking interviews and articles with world-class images
Private user-name and password to subscribers-only website
Simon Stafford’s Technical Helpline
18-month warranty on second-hand Nikon from Grays of Westminster
10% off Think Tank bags purchased at Grays of Westminster
Special trips and events
Discounts on events and training sessions
10% off any training courses run by Nikon UK

Gold subscription – special price: £290 when you book this course
3-year subscription to Nikon Owner
5-year warranty on all new Nikon products from Grays of Westminster
2-year warranty on second-hand Nikon from Grays of Westminster
Gold Priority waiting list for all new Nikon releases (top of the waiting list)
A half-hour tutorial on the phone or face to face, by appointment
Special offers to Gold subscribers throughout the period of subscription
A signed copy of Heather Angel’s Wild Kew while stocks last or a Simon Stafford Nikon Magic Lantern Guide of your choice
Nikon Owner quarterly magazine as above
Private user-name and password to subscribers-only website which includes forum, message board, technical equipment reviews, events’ page and use of a photo gallery
Simon Stafford’s Technical Helpline
15% off Think Tank bags purchased at Grays of Westminster
Special trips and events
Substantial discounts on training sessions organised by Grays of Westminster, including Mike Maloney’s Workshops , Heather Angel’s Wildlife & Natural History Workshops, Simon Stafford’s Definitive Flash, Portraiture and Macro Training Sessions, Michael Eleftheriades’ panoramic and colour-calibration seminars and Chris Weston’s Photographic Courses.
10% off any training courses run by Nikon UK

With very best wishes

Gillian Greenwood
Features Editor and Events & Training Coordinator

Thursday 21 February 2013

Insect Research.

The Hover Fly.  Episyrphus balteatus.


Look for the pattern of broad and narrow black bands on the abdomen to identify this very common hover-fly.  It is a great migrant and British populations are often augmented by huge invasions from the continent.  The flies swarm over plants collecting pollen and nectar and also feeding on honeydew.  They often enter houses.  The larvae eat aphids. 

SIZE: 10mm.

HABITAT:    Anywhere with flowers, especially fond of umbellifers and often abundant in gardens.

RANGE:      All Europe.

SEASON:   All year, but usually dormant in winter.

SIMLAR SPECIES:   None.

Dung-fly.  Scathophaga stercoraria.

This fly abounds on fresh cow- dug in he summer.   Scores of golden haired males may settle on a single cow-pat.  The female, seen here below the male, is less hairy and often rather green.  Both sexes have black antennae.  Adults feed on other flies attracted to the dung, but the large feed on the dung itself.  The dung of horses, deer and sheep is also eaten.

SIZE:  10mm

HABITAT:  Light woodland and most open habitats, but most commons on grazing pastures.

RANGE:  All Europe.

SEASON:  April-October.

SIMLAR SPECIES:  Several related spices are very similar but have orange antennae.




Seven-spot Ladybird. coccinella 7 punctuate.


Seven black spots on the elytra identify this familiar garden insect.  Note the strong smelling fluid exuded if the insect is handled.  This is its defence against birds and other predators.  Adults and larvae are all voracious aphid-hunters.  The steely-blue, yellow-spotted lava of this and of the smaller two spot ladybird are often abundant in gardens.

SIZE:  5-9mm

HABITAT:  Almost anywhere sometimes migrates in swarms.

RANGE:  All Europe.

SEASON:  All year, but dormant in the winter, occasionally in large clusters.

SIMILAR  SPECIES:  Scarce 7-spot ladybird is rarely found far from woods ant nest.  It may have extra spot.













Scorpion Fly.  Panorpa communis.


Look for the rather narrow, spotted wings and the stout beak characteristic of the scorpion flies.  Only the male, shown here has the up-turned tail that gives these harmless insects their name.  The tip of the female abdomen has the same chestnut colour as the male, but it is slender and tapering.  The larvae live in the soil and, like the adults, they are scavengers. 

SIZE:  15-20mm.

HABITAT:  Nettle-beds, hedgerows and other lush vegetation.

RANGE:  Most of Europe.

SEASONS:  April-August.


SIMILAR SPECIES:  About 30 species live in Europe, mostly in the S.  The spots vary but the only sure way to distinguish them is to examine the genitalia. 












Garden Spider.  Araneus diadematus.


The garden spider is a common and delightful site that is found in gardens up and down the country between June and November.  If you accidentally dis tube  Garden spider on its web it will use its legs to oscillate itself up and down and shake the web, and if it is very severely disturbed, it will drop from its web on a silk thread and lie still until its convinced the danger has passed an and then it will climb back to its web.

SIZE:  9-15mm.

HABITAT:  Hedgerow, gardens and fences.

RANGE:  Manly British isles.

SEASONS:  June November.

SIMILAR SPECIES:  About 30 species live around Europe. 














Blue-tailed Damselfly.  Lschnra elegans.


The male has a conspicuous blue patch near the tip of the abdomen.  In the female the blue is often replaced by lilac or pale brown.  The pterostigma near the tip of the forewing is half white and half black, as in all lschura species.  Both sexes have a small spike just behind the head, easily seen with the lens.  This species breeds in all kinds of fresh water.

SIZE:  25-35mm wingspan 30-40mm.

HABITAT:  Waterside vegetation.

RANGE:  Most of Europe except Spain and far North.

SEASON:  March-October, two or three broods.

SIMILAR SPECIES:  Scarce Blue-tailed Damslfly lacks the spike behind the head.















Flesh Fly.  Sacophaga carnaria.


One of several very similar flies with red eyes and very large feet.  Note also the chequered black and grey abdomen, whose pattern varies with the angle of view.  Although adults often feed on flowers, they are strongly attracted to carrion and dung, where the females give birth to lava instead of laying eggs.  The larvae feed in the rotting material.

SIZE:  12-20mm.

HABITAT:  Almost anywhere common around houses, although rarely fond indoors.

RANGE:  All Europe.

SEASON:  All year often basks on walls in winter sun.

SIMILAR SPECIES:  Other Sarcophaga species are very  differ cult to distinguish.  Many smaller flies have similar abdominal patterns. 














Field digger: Mellinus arvensis.

This common species can be distinguished from most other black and yellow digger wasps by the large yellow spot on the scutellum and the elongated waist - almost like a stalk connecting the thorax and abdomen.  It excavates it's nest in light, usually sandy, soil and stocks it with flies, especially hover flies.

SIZE:  10-15mm.

HABITAT:  Open places on well drained soils.

RANGE:  Most of Europe except far North.

SEASON: May-September.

SIMILAR SPECIES:  The much rarer M. crabroneus has paler markings and reddish antennae. 













Honey Bee.  Apis mellifera.


The bee that provides all our honey.  It differs from other bees in the long, narrow cell near the wing-tip.  Most Honey Bees live in hives in Europe, but there are many wild colonies in hollow trees.  The bee here is a worker.  The abdominal pattern varies and the orange patches are not always present.  Males or drones are plumper with longer antennae.

Size:  10-15mm.

Habitat:  Anywhere with platy of flowers.

RANGE:  All Europe.  Originally a native of southern Asia. domesticated strains are now found almost all over the world.

SEASON:  All year, but dormant in winter.

SIMILAR SPECIES:  Many bees are superficially similar but none has the long cell near the wing-tip.










Monday 18 February 2013

Mark Cassino.

Mark Cassino.


A Primer on Insect Photography



Several years ago I added a tutorial on insect photography to this website. Now, with the addition of this blog, it’s time for an updated version. Some things have changed in the past few years – for one thing I now photograph virtually all insect shots using a digital SLR, and for another improvements in TTL flash technology have simplified many aspects of the process. On the other hand, some things haven’t changed – I still use the same basic steup, the same flash bracket (though I have experimented with others) and the same lens.

Since a lot hasn’t changed I’ll leave the old essay in place, while offering up this new essay, tailored to the digital age. That essay includes some ramblings on how to stalk insects that are not included here, as well some notions about why its worthwhile to photograph insects.

This essay here covers photographing bugs using a digital SLR. A separate post covering photographing insects with a prosumer digital camera will be posted in the future.

Mark’s Setup



Here’s a photo of my current insect photography setup:




The camera is a 6 megapixel Pentax *ist-D digital SLR. The lens is the optically outstanding manual focus Pentax 200mm f4 macro. The flash bracket is mounted on the lens’s tripod mount, which have be flip around so that the mounting plate is on the top of the lens. The flash is the Pentax AF360FGZ, hooked up to the camera with standard issue cables.

To put things in perspective, I’ve included a small fishing fly in the shot, to represent the subject. The fishing fly is about one foot from the front the lens, and is at the closest point of focus for this lens. To clarify the scale a little more, here’s a full frame shot of the fly at maximum magnification:




And here is a shot with a snippet of a tape measure included:




As you can see, this setup easily focuses down to about 1 in along the long dimension of the frame – good enough to capture even fairly small insects. The working distance increases considerably as the camera is focused on larger subjects, with the result that for large butterflies or dragonflies the working distance is several feet.

You have to look closely in the image, but I use a bounce card on the flash (in this shot the flash’s built in bounce card is deployed, I usually use a larger one, assuming I remember to bring it with me.) The flash in actually positioned to discharge above the subject, which throws light behind it and helps illuminate near background elements. This also helps to hide the subject’s shadow, by placing the shadow behind the insect. The bounce card pushes some light down onto the subject that is both directional and diffuse – which helps soften contrast and shadow, but also helps bring out surface detail on the insect.


The one component not shown in this shot is the monopod that I now regularly use for all insect photography. It’s just a lightweight SILK monopod – sufficient to jab into the ground and get a more steady shot with.

This setup is essentially the same as the film based setup discussed in the earlier essay. But, going digital has introduced some changes that can’t be shown in a photo. Specifically –

• The excellent acutance of digital compared to film has resulted in my use of the monopod. It’s amazing that for years I got seemingly sharp shots on film just hand holding the camera. With digital, I get a ghost image if the camera isn’t rock steady – hence the monopod.

• The lowest ISO setting for the *ist-D is ISO 200, and I routinely shoot at ISO 400 with no ill effect. There just isn’t noticeable digital noise until ISO 800 or higher. Combined with the enhance flash system – that now synchs at any speed up to 1/6000th of a second – its much easier to balance the ambient light with the flash and still maintain a high shutter speed to freeze the action and minimize the effects of hand holding the camera. I very often shoot at 1/500th or even 1/750th of a second, at f16, ISO 400.

• The digital ‘crop factor’ results in more reach and more apparent magnification. The crop factor is the result of the digital sensor being smaller than the 35mm film frame it replaces. The 200mm lens on the *ist-D functions like a 300mm lens on a 35mm camera. The added reach and apparent magnification is nice, but the narrow angle of view, which allows better control over the background, is the real boon.

• I shoot in RAW mode exclusively. The ability to tweak color balance, sharpness, contrast, and saturation on a per-shot basis is invaluable.

This basic setup will work for the vast majority of insect close-ups, since it allows for full frame shots of insects from 1 inch in size and larger. To get closer, I add a teleconverter to the lens. The teleconverter is paired to the lens. The front element of the teleconverter actually extends up into the lens to press against the rear element. Since the two optics are designed to integrate and work together, the optical quality is excellent.


Field Techniques



That’s the basic rig that I use. Here’s how it is used in the field.

Of course, the key thing is getting out into the field and finding the subjects. Insects can be unpredictable – at least for me – so its a good idea to scout out several locations, representing different types of terrain and habitat. If one place comes up dry, you can move on to another, different location and hopefully have better results.

Unlike a lot of nature photography, you don’t have to be an early bird to get good insect shots. Different species are active at different times of the day. The morning can be a good time to get dew covered subjects – dragonflies, bees, or spider webs – but even on the hottest summer activity insects are active. In my experience, insect activity tends to peak from mid morning to early afternoon, and then drops off a bit during the hottest part of the day (though several species remain active even then.) Things then pick up again in late afternoon and early evening.

As with virtually all photography, the lighting of the subject is what distinguishes a good shot from a great shot. Using the setup shown above, the subject is lit primarily by the flash. Having a camera system with an accurate TTL flash setup really simplifies things. Here are a few tips for lighting:


• The ambient light needs to be balanced with the light from the flash. It’s important to realize that the insect is primarily lit by the flash – and that the flash is not being used only for fill. If you look closely at many of the insect photos – like this one: (Winged Wonder) You’ll see two highlights in the bug’s eyes. The top one is the sun, the bottom is the flash. I think that helps clarify how the two light sources interact.

• I leave the flash set to no compensation, and manually set the camera’s meter to be one stop under exposed. When the background is far away, it will drop down a zone in exposure (the flash won’t illuminate it). The insect is lit at the correct exposure, and so it ‘pops’ a bit in the photo – it’s just a little brighter than the background.


Here’s how this works out in practical terms: Lets saw the subject is a dragonfly lit by direct sunlight. The camera is set to ISO 400. The ‘sunny 16’ rule suggests that the correct exposure for the ambient light is 1/350th of a second at f 16. I often shoot at f16, for the depth of field. So in this case I’d set the camera to f16 and 1/750th of a second, and then rely on the flash to fully illuminate the insect in the image. The result is the “pop” effect mentioned above. This image is a good example of what I mean by that:

Depth of field is a real challenge with any type of close up photography. Depth of field refers to the area that is in focus, or sharp, in an image. The more you magnify something, the less depth of field there is. The get more depth of field, the lens has to be stopped down. I routinely shoot at f 11, f16, and f 22, depending on how big the subject is and how the background is working in the shot.

It's also important to regularly use the depth of field preview function on your camera to assess how the background will look in the final shot. While this won't tell you precisely what will be in focus, you can spot distractions in the background and correct them if possible.

Controlling the background is another challenge. As with most photos, a clean and uncluttered background can really contribute to the quality of the shot. Of course, you can’t always control what kind of background you can get, but getting the right background can mean the difference between a strong aesthetic image and one that is just a specimen shot. The ideal background isn’t just a blank green blur, but also include some elements that contribute to the shot.


Although the lens I use is manual focus, in a way I use autofocus for most of these shots. Pentax cameras support ‘tap focus’ with manual focus lens. In this mode, the lens is manually focused but the camera doesn’t fire until the autofocus sensor reads that things are in focus. With this technique you can just set the lens to the desired magnification and move in slowly, letting the shutter trip when the subject comes into focus. It doesn’t always work, and a quick flip to manual focus mode is often needed. I don’t use an autofocus setup, but I would expect a good autofocus setup to work well with insect close-ups.

When it all comes together, it’s possible to get some interesting and even beautiful images of some of nature’s most interesting creatures. Aside from just straight close-ups of insects, shots that incorporate wild flowers or other elements can be the most compelling.

Alternative Setups:



The setup I described above is what I use for shooting insect shots. But there are lots of other alternatives.

For a person jest getting started with insect photography, deciding what lens to use is significant question.

A macro lens is the obvious solution, but the drawback is that they are relatively expensive, especially in the 180 to 200mm focal length. A 100mm macro is also a very effective focal length, and on a digital SLR where the ‘crop factor’ is present, a 100 mm macro gives you a very good working range at a good price. This would definitely be an option worth considering . Under any circumstance, I would not recommend a 50mm macro for insects – there is just not enough working room.

When selecting a macro lens, be sure to get one that focuses down to life sized – 1:1 magnification. Some lenses only go to half life sized, and may not support shooting small subjects - like this fly.


Other than a macro lens, here are some other ways of getting high magnification, using a regular telephoto or even zoom lens:

• Close-up diopters: These are like filters that screw onto the front of the lens and enable it to focus more closely. Inexpensive close-up filters are available, but generally will not meet stringent quality standards. High quality, multi-element close up filters are also available – but at a significant price point. One advantage of close up filters is that they don’t affect exposure – both extension tubes and teleconverters (discussed below) affect the amount of light reaching the camera. While this isn't a big deal - the camera meter sould adjust for the light loss - it does make it harder to balance the ambient light to the flash while maintaining a worakble shutter speed. Close up filters are the best choice for getting close with a zoom lens.

• Extension Tubes: These basically are empty tubes that fit between the lens and the camera. The further the lens is from the camera, the closer you can focus. Since no optics are involved, extension tubes do not introduce any optical distortion (though the increase magnification may exaggerate existing distortions in your lenses.) Extension tubes can be a good option for prime (fixed focal length) lenses. One drawback with tubes is that the further out the lens is extended, the less rhe light that reaches the camera. The camera’s meter will automatically adjust for this, but you can loose up to a full stop in effective speed with tubes attached. (The same speed loss can also affect macro lenses, that may focus close through built in extension.)


• Teleconverters are a third option. Both close up filters and extension tubes have the drawback of not allowing the lens to focus to infinity, so you are locked into shooting close ups while they are in place. A teleconverter fits between the camera and lens, and basically magnifies the center of the image. They allow you to focus closer, while still letting you focus to infinity. The drawbacks of teleconverters is that they can be expensive and also impact exposure, similar to extension tubes. Because teleconverters are themselves another lens, adding one to your existing lens can introduce more optical distortions. I use teleconverters specifically designed for use with my macro lens. Using a teleconverter designed for your lens is the best option. Otherwise, its something of a crap shoot in terms how a given converter will work with a particular lens.

Once you have a lens that lets you get up close, the next step is to put together a flash bracket to work with it. There are few opportunities for constructing do-it-yourself photographic equipment. The macro flash bracket is one exception to this. You can buy macro flash brackets, modify standard brackets, or jus cobble together a bracket out of stuff from the hardware store. The bracket I use was make from a few corner braces and metal rods put together with simple nuts and bolts.

That covers the basics of photographing insects. There are many ways to do it, and finding the way that works best for your gear and style of shooting is part of the fun. If you have any questions, feel free to email me.

To see more photos, please visit the Insect Gallery, Butterfly Gallery, or my favorite - the Dragonfly Gallery.


This entry was posted on May 12th, 2006 at 11:59:42 pm and is filed under Photo Techniques, Insect Photography.
4 comments
Comment from: more [Visitor]
Dear Sir 
hello, I am interested in insect photography and I want to buy a good digital camera with equipments .
Please guide me.
By the way, camera prices not to be very expensive.
thanks .
more
03/30/07 @ 12:30
Comment from: kevin miller [Visitor]
Hi,

I am new to insect photography and am looking for direction regarding Camera make/MOdel...

My goal is to photo insects for Id purposes. I am an arborist inMass and need to positively id insects, plant id charactaristics and plant disorder symptoms. I would be taking the majority of my photo's in the field. The camera need not take award winning shots. However, the shots need to be clear enough to show the detail for id.

Can you guide me?

km
05/12/08 @ 18:48
Comment from: Mark Cassino [Member] · http://www.markcassino.com
Hi Kevin -

My gut feeling is that you don't need an expensive DSLR, but could probably do well with a good non-DSLR digital camera. The advantages of the DSLR are that it gives you the working room to control lighting, which is the essence of getting really good images. Because of the larger sensor size, DSLR's also allow you to blow up the images for large prints. If you are looking for something more utilitarian, a digicam that lets you get close would probably be fine.

I can't really recommend a specific brand and make - they change so quickly that it's hard to keep up with what is out there. I'd suggest taking a look over at dpreview.com, and seeing what the latest offerings are. 

Definitely look for something with a good macro capability - ideally it would fill the frame with the smallest subject you need to photograph and still give you enough working distance to not spook the bug while getting the shot. Good image quality at high ISO's and some sort of image stabilization would also be on the list of features - you would want to be able to get in and get a good shot hand holding the camera with natural light.

Good luck!


2012 by Mark Cassino